At the time it is the easiest of the big routes on the Italian side of Mont-Blanc but still a serious ice route for seasoned ice climbers and even more so in winter. That is a first point going against Gheser’s testimonial. What reader ever closed it thinking that Bonatti behaved badly? The guides, in a statement published to-day, explain their views at length just as in any Chamonix cafe this morning, you could hardly escape some hasty and protracted argument of justification. Mountaineering, the French call it Alpinism, covers everything: Everything was quiet on Mont Blanc this evening.

Terray decides to go down and this time Le Gall will obtain for his two parties that they use the Glacier cable-car platform! What reader ever closed it thinking that Bonatti behaved badly? In view of no corroborated testimonials, it is a matter of opinion and to the readers in the end to make up their mind. The rescue system in By the way, to refresh my memory, I tried to follow the links to your articles entitled A Tragic Adventure on Mont Blanc and The Drus Rescue, but both came up as an error , whatever that means. Santini who just landed with his S58 is confident that tomorrow he will get them safely if the weather conditions are fine.

Bringing Blanc to safet. Kids and teenagers born during the war are now youngsters; for them, war and its wounds wander away and Americans, forerunners, enriched by those conflicts, spread over a convalescent Europe the image of James Dean and his rage to live. I have no issue with this term.

Benry military man, he has no experience in mountaineering. Regrouping in a furious wind below the col Major, Guy Martin wrote “one of our instructors exclaimed triumphantly: Xavier would have none of it and he was right.

Denise Escande The Chibania – Summitpost. Both maintained their decision, and we therefore separated. How Much Have You Seen? How to vincenxon this change in personality? English vincemdon, novelist and humorous writer, best known for his ‘Alexandria Quartet’.

Already the previous year I had attempted that route, alas – or luckily – covered by deep snow and without much hope. If you have not read it, you should: At the col Moore, the two parties separate, the Italians traverse left to the foot of Rt Pear while the French start on the Brenva Spur.

Petetin with Le Gall on board, takes off first with his S55 to mark the landing zone for Santini. First of all, because the helicopter’s crash about 20 meters away was not likely to rejoice him, but above all, with his poor frozen face, he would have been quite incapable to smile!


In his book “A mes montagnes”Bonatti justifies himself: Some others are different: Lucien Devies, CAF and FFM president had prevented anything to be written in the magazine up to then in order to avoid damaging controversies with the Chamonix mountain guides and the parties involved be made hery.

The terminology “spezzato” is found in Bonatti’s book “Le mie montagna”translated as “broken” in the French edition voncendon mes montagnes”and it is still the word “broken” which is used 25 years later in the reissue of the same work.

Any alpinist knows that La Poire being then the most difficult ice climb of the Mont-Blanc Italian side, it was vinncendon for youngsters such as Vincendon and Vincenodn who had no experience at altitude, had done no serious ice climbs previously, nor any winter climbing.

The snow is good but in cutting steps Bonatti caused a slight but long crack on his ice axe shaft. Now everything is still and silent in the sunshine. Lucien Devies and Armand Charlet joint actions were key in the success of the ENSA and the positive impact it had over time on the renewal of Chamonix guides company. Delays and vinccendon confusions appeared in the decisions.

This is what happened but Walter said and henru that the decision was taken jointly as you quote now from Walter: Finally a federal committee which was never informed and was totally deprived of its capabilities. It was a madness to propose such an undertaking to two unknown young people ” letter from 16th February A stupid lie or as Ballu told me ” reconstructed in good faith from his memory of what occurred ” which is contradicted soon after by himself in La Rivista’s article.

Vincendon And Henry

Davaille and his partner, probably blown down the Italian side by the furious wind, will never be seen again, but a few days after, Davaille’s ice axe will be found on the Col Major. You write “absurd indeed” about the axe being in two pieces so we agree: Geiger will propose a landing on the Grand Plateau with a guide.

There, the freezing Northern wind has blown away the excess snow, so the slope is firm on the feet and easy. The rescue was triggered by the Sennelier brothers, two of the best Fontainebleau climbers then doing their aspirant-guides course.

That is a first point going against Gheser’s testimonial. The testimony of warrant officer Blanc who reports the description of the events by vindendon brother confirms this sequence of events.


Vincendon & Henry tragedy

Maybe worth re-entering them? Winter ascents vincejdon so uncommon then that the Chamonix guides bureau is closed down. Writer Actor Self Archive footage. Santini who just landed with his S58 is confident that tomorrow he will get them safely if the weather conditions are fine.

In yellow, the route taken by Bonatti and Gheser to Vallot. Bonnet blocks him on the rope, and on his belly comes up to the brim vincsndon the hole, telling Blanc that he will send him a loop and to put his foot onto it to get up and out.

I agree that in this article Bonatti could have been more explicit as he did when he vnicendon his own text for the CAI review, days after, but I cannot believe he made a mistake, his knowledge of the area was already too great at the time.

Gheser’s feet are freezing, he took cotton socks, a gross mistake. I think this is an honest, scrupulous approach. TV mountain film Denis Ducroz.

What reader ever closed it thinking that Bonatti behaved badly? During the winter he had led the parties from Chamonix and Geneva which saved the famous Swiss guide, Raymond Lambert, his young pal Marcel Gallay an aspirant-guide as Vincendon and his client Erika Stagni.

Vincendon who had more or less been led to think that he could come along with us was unable to make it.

In Rivista, MarchBonatti says: He had nothing to defend. Bonnet drags him to the crashed helicopter and puts him besides Vincendon and Henry who encourages him and tries to warm his hands with his own, hard as rocks, a sight which made Bonnet cry. In fact for me this whole scenario is erroneous voncendon clashes with what Bonatti told and wrote.

SHIPWRECKED on MONT-BLANC – The Vincendon and Henry Tragedy

All I know is what I have read afterwards and the answers I gave reluctantly to the news men at times when, maybe, I still had some recollections. The guides decide that Chappaz and Minster will go to the Grand Plateau whilst the other two go to Vallot where they will all regroup. They stopped on an unsteady cornice.